October 2011 - Vilnius Lithuania

First impression of Vilnius - depressing as hell - something dark and dismal about the place.
Second impression of Vilnius - something dark and dismal about the place.

Vilnius seems to have that unfortunate mix of nordic/slavic. Unfortunate in that the ratio is 20/80. It is like a mix of Warsaw and Helsinki, with Warsaw winning by a mile. Historically Lithuania was a Polish province, the country enjoyed some decades of freedom until the second world war. During the war years, the town was became infamous for it's Jewish ghetto and the horrible fate of the ghetto's inhabitants. After the war they were under the Soviet yoke. The legacy of the communist years are still to be seen. There are many derelict buildings in the city centre, just waiting to be renovated. However, greed seems to be the controlling factor here, with the owners waiting for real estate prices to rise. In the outskirts one is greeted by the usual workers silos - the usual eastern European pre-cast concrete apartment blocks.

For all of that, the locals are fine and helpful - especially with directions. "You should come back in Summer. It's much nicer then!" is what one hears a lot, not only here but in the other rather foreboding cities of eastern Europe. I certainly will not be spending my summer holidays in Vilnius and environs, give me Howth and Portmarnock strand any day.

However, in the midst of all this sadness, I did find some great cafes on Pillies Street - the main thoroughfare of the old town. Give them their due, they certainly know their Cappuccino here. There are also some nice restaurants around there, but most offer the usual touristy stuff - loads of meat and frozen veg. nothing major to write home about! I wonder what Grand Duke Mindaugas would say...

My recommendation vis-a-vis Vilnius: If you have to go there then go,
if you don't then don't.